Gorillas II: Ellen's Version

 I admit, I was skeptical about traipsing around an African forest looking for primates. When Matthew proposed the expedition, I was borderline dismissive, but I am now a true convert.  Being face to face with the mountain gorillas was humbling, euphoric, terrifying and hilarious all at the same time.  It was everything Matthew described plus the following crucial details. 

1) The bumpy road. 

And miles to go...

Maybe it was because I was sitting in the back seat, but I kept thinking of a line from Harry Potter when Harry boards the Knight Bus, "It's going to be a bumpy ride!"  said the creepy, little shrunken head.  Bumpy doesn't even come close. We were maybe going between 3 and 10 mph up a steep incline dodging craters and ravines in a cobblestone-esque road.  All along the way were children running up to the car with outstretched hands or hocking crayon pictures of gorillas (we found out were actually drawn by adults) shouting "mzungu!" We were strongly discouraged by Eric to give them anything.  He explained that it encourages the children to drop out of school if they think they can make more money by begging. While the scenery was stunning, bouncing around the cabin like we were popcorn in a microwave made it difficult at times to enjoy it.  My insides felt like a milkshake.  The benefit was that by the time we made it to the beginning of the trail, I was so excited to be out of the car, I didn't have a chance to start dreading the climb straight up the mountain. 

2) Stinging nettles really sting.

ouch!

No joke. Those little buggers hurt!  But it was also a sort of badge of honor to get stuck.  When gazing into the caramel-colored eyes of a gorilla baby, you stop feeling the sting or maybe the sight is even enhanced by it.  You know what you're seeing is real because you are constantly being pinched.  I asked if the gorillas are bothered by them and Francis chuckled, "No, because they eat them!  It's crazy!"  Indeed.








3) 7 Meters

This is me standing exactly 7 meters away from Matthew

This is me about 7 meters from a gorilla

This is one of our group members NOT standing 7 meters from a gorilla

We were so close we could have leaned forward and been on top of them. They appeared so gentle and easy going and fluffy.  When we first saw them, Matthew said, "I just want to hug them!"  It was adorable. 

Do you want to know what is not adorable? Cockroaches. While writing this blog, a GIANT cockroach was running around our hotel room! That is a kind of African wildlife I can certainly live without. Luckily, my hero, Matthew, disposed of it.

Today, we met Benon and toured the Genocide Memorial and Museum.  Benon is a wonderful guide and has a remarkable talent for talking about heavy subjects without getting bogged down in them.  He has a beautiful laugh and a kind smile.  We also finally had a chance to walk around the city and be tourists.  I'm starting to get my bearings here. 

Tomorrow is a holiday.  It is the commemoration of the end of the genocide.  Unfortunately, we will not get to attend the major speeches given at the stadium, but we will go to the Reconciliation Village.  It is poignant timing to go tomorrow and it will be humbling to hear people's stories.  We have a lot to digest from today and will report more in the morning.